Remington Rolling Block Stocks
Here is a good pic of my crescent butt pattern for the Rolling Block, built for a customer by
C. Sharps Arms in Montana. The forearm is the sporting tip style.
C. Sharps Arms in Montana. The forearm is the sporting tip style.
The picture above is another rifle built for a customer by C. Sharps Arms in Montana, using my
standard shotgun butt. I think they used the black poly Sharps buttplate. Here again, the forearm is using the steel sporting tip.
standard shotgun butt. I think they used the black poly Sharps buttplate. Here again, the forearm is using the steel sporting tip.
#4 Rolling Block Creedmoor
This is a pistolgrip shotgun butts and schnabble forearm, a new pattern by Curt Hardcastle for the little #4 Remington. Now you know what you can do with that dusty old boys rifle that has been sitting in the back of the safe gathering dust.
With the sweet Green Mountain .22 rimfire octagon barrel, and quality sights, these can become serious match rifles.
This is a pistolgrip shotgun butts and schnabble forearm, a new pattern by Curt Hardcastle for the little #4 Remington. Now you know what you can do with that dusty old boys rifle that has been sitting in the back of the safe gathering dust.
With the sweet Green Mountain .22 rimfire octagon barrel, and quality sights, these can become serious match rifles.
Another #4 by Curt, English Walnut, showing checkering
A checkered butt on the #4 Creedmoor.
The butt on this particular stock has a unique shape, and in this case there
is no normal buttplate to fit. However, on high grade woods such as this English walnut, the stock serves nicely with some shaping and a nice checker job.
The butt on this particular stock has a unique shape, and in this case there
is no normal buttplate to fit. However, on high grade woods such as this English walnut, the stock serves nicely with some shaping and a nice checker job.
Pistolgrip conversion with cheekrest. Curt Hardcastle's pattern using his weld on tang conversion.
There's a few pictures of what can be done to a crusty century old military rolling block. I realize most of you are not likely to put that kind of money and effort into building a gun, but here is proof that it can be done.
Most of the stocks that I carve for the Remington R.B. are inlet for the standard #1 military surplus action, while there are a few exceptions, this is the most common wood/metal fit encountered today.
I also carve stocks for the #1 commercial sporting action (easiest I.D. is the lower tang is considerably longer than the top tang, not nearly as common as the military action.)
Also available, with less selection of patterns, are stocks for the #2 and #4 Rolling Block
It is CRITICAL that you correctly identify the action when you order wood, if you are not certain, please ask. Pictures help. Doing your homework ahead of time will save me time, and assure that you get the right stock with the correct action inlet.
The stock patterns I offer are designed for different purposes. They can be carved from many different types of wood that I offer, in many grades. The purpose you intend to use the rifle for determine the best pattern to use. For example, if you are building a long range or silhouette gun, you would be poorly served with a crescent buttstock. Yes, it looks cool, but not the smartest choice for a competition rifle.
Likewise, choice of wood goes with purpose of the rifle. Extra Fancy and Exhibition grade wood is for EXHIBITING. Yes, it may impress your friends, a bragger for sure, but it is NOT intended for a useful gun, and breakage is likely. It is also unforgiving of improper fitting.I do not stand behind that type of wood if it goes south in a shooting match or hunting trip. ANYTHING beyond select Fancy should best be hung on the wall and admired. Consider this a word to the wise.
Most of the stocks that I carve for the Remington R.B. are inlet for the standard #1 military surplus action, while there are a few exceptions, this is the most common wood/metal fit encountered today.
I also carve stocks for the #1 commercial sporting action (easiest I.D. is the lower tang is considerably longer than the top tang, not nearly as common as the military action.)
Also available, with less selection of patterns, are stocks for the #2 and #4 Rolling Block
It is CRITICAL that you correctly identify the action when you order wood, if you are not certain, please ask. Pictures help. Doing your homework ahead of time will save me time, and assure that you get the right stock with the correct action inlet.
The stock patterns I offer are designed for different purposes. They can be carved from many different types of wood that I offer, in many grades. The purpose you intend to use the rifle for determine the best pattern to use. For example, if you are building a long range or silhouette gun, you would be poorly served with a crescent buttstock. Yes, it looks cool, but not the smartest choice for a competition rifle.
Likewise, choice of wood goes with purpose of the rifle. Extra Fancy and Exhibition grade wood is for EXHIBITING. Yes, it may impress your friends, a bragger for sure, but it is NOT intended for a useful gun, and breakage is likely. It is also unforgiving of improper fitting.I do not stand behind that type of wood if it goes south in a shooting match or hunting trip. ANYTHING beyond select Fancy should best be hung on the wall and admired. Consider this a word to the wise.
My 3 basic shotgun butt patterns. Top: Standard, Center: Midrange, Bottom: Silhouette
Crescent Rifle Pattern
I developed this stock for the Rem. Rolling Block after numerous requests from customers.
Not a good choice if you want to enjoy your shooting.
This is a good choice if you want to build a Gemmer style rifle, however, I do not make Gemmer style forearms.
They are designed for my crescent buttplate, available for 32.00 with screws.
I developed this stock for the Rem. Rolling Block after numerous requests from customers.
Not a good choice if you want to enjoy your shooting.
This is a good choice if you want to build a Gemmer style rifle, however, I do not make Gemmer style forearms.
They are designed for my crescent buttplate, available for 32.00 with screws.
Remington Rolling Block and Hepburn Forearms.
Standard Shotgun butt and schnabble forearm. A fine piece of English walnut, this rifle belongs to my friend Dave Bearden of Spokane, WA.
Here is a .44/77 built by Mike Nesbitt. The stock is the standard sporting shotgun butt and steel tip forearm. The comb on this stock is traditional, not as high as the midrange stock shown in the pic below, but correct if you want a period shotgun style butt.
The walnut is the last on hand from the Axtell Rifle Co., used on their 77 Sharps.
The walnut is the last on hand from the Axtell Rifle Co., used on their 77 Sharps.
Above is a nice pair of Rolling Block sporting rifles, built on Scandinavian actions. These are the Midrange pattern shotgun butts, and schnabble forearms.
RB Shotgun with cheekrest, Select English Walnut
Eldridge Mounts Rolling Block with the standard style shotgun butt and schnabble forearm. This is not the best style for a competition rifle, but makes a great all round stock. Note the schnabble also works on a round barrel.
RB Silhouette pattern by Jerry Vanwey
This is the Silhouette pattern, with shadowline cheekrest. This is a good all round pattern for many uses. Similar in height to the Midrange, it offers a cheekrest, which in this case does not raise the height of the comb, but adds a nice decoration. This rifle is a Scandinavian Rolling Block belonging to Jim Reed of New Zealand. Jim comes out to the States when opportunity presents and has been to more matches around the country than many of us natives.
Crescent style buttstock on .50-70 RB Conversion. Yes, this stock has a hole in it, and it was intentional. Cool eh?
Pistolgrip Creedmore Pattern
The coolest conversion for the military rolling block, also the toughest to build correctly.
The lower tang on the action must be bent correctly to accommodate the stock (Hint: get the stock BEFORE bending the tang so you have a reference to make the correct bend).
To get the graceful geometry in the wrist that is so appealing, it is necessary to mill the upper and lower tang to approx. .615 wide at the receiver. I make no guarantees that anyone can do a nice job of this, it is not an easy conversion.
The straight grip patterns are much easier to complete and more economical in the end.
Taking shortcuts on this conversion is not recommended.
The Creedmore pistolgrip pattern is available with or without a cheekrest.
As you can see, the cheekrest (being a classic design,) is little more than a decoration. The cheekrest does not make the comb higher.
The coolest conversion for the military rolling block, also the toughest to build correctly.
The lower tang on the action must be bent correctly to accommodate the stock (Hint: get the stock BEFORE bending the tang so you have a reference to make the correct bend).
To get the graceful geometry in the wrist that is so appealing, it is necessary to mill the upper and lower tang to approx. .615 wide at the receiver. I make no guarantees that anyone can do a nice job of this, it is not an easy conversion.
The straight grip patterns are much easier to complete and more economical in the end.
Taking shortcuts on this conversion is not recommended.
The Creedmore pistolgrip pattern is available with or without a cheekrest.
As you can see, the cheekrest (being a classic design,) is little more than a decoration. The cheekrest does not make the comb higher.
Ebony Pistolgrip
The picture above shows my Ebony pistolgrip mounted on a Navy Arms Rolling Block.
This allows you to have a pistolgrip without actually bending the lower tang of the stock.
This pistolgrip was installed and finished by Jerry Vanwey of Raton, NM.
To install, you will have to drill and tap a hole in the tang to accept a screw. The screw passes through the grip (the head of the screw will be covered by the grip cap, which is a piece of wood included. It is unshaped, but as shown in the photo, it can be shaped to add a nice flair to the finished product)
Ebony grip and cap piece 85.00
This allows you to have a pistolgrip without actually bending the lower tang of the stock.
This pistolgrip was installed and finished by Jerry Vanwey of Raton, NM.
To install, you will have to drill and tap a hole in the tang to accept a screw. The screw passes through the grip (the head of the screw will be covered by the grip cap, which is a piece of wood included. It is unshaped, but as shown in the photo, it can be shaped to add a nice flair to the finished product)
Ebony grip and cap piece 85.00
Work by Curt Hardcastle
I am happy to show some work from my friend Curt Hardcastle here. The first three photos at top of the page, show some more of Curt's work. I've only known Curt and his lovely wife Lark (who also is one of the best BPCS spotters in the game) for a couple of years, but the better I get to know them both, the more impressed I am with their skills and integrity. These pictures show what Curt was able to do with a couple of crusty old military Rolling Block actions, built to order for his customers.
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Bear in mind, this level of work does not come cheap, the owners of these rifles have several thousand dollars invested in them. Curt is particular about the work he accepts, but I do not believe you will find a dissatisfied customer from his shop.
